This fascinating town was the centre of the Axumite Empire, one of the most important and technologically advanced civilisations of its time and a major force in world trade between the 1st and 7th centuries AD. A further twist in the town’s long history is speculation that it could have held the court of the Queen of Sheba and also that it is the final resting place of the Ark of the Covenant. Whatever the truth of these matters it is undoubtedly the holiest city of the Ethiopian Orthodox church and there is a startling wealth of antiquities both to be seen and as yet still undiscovered.
Axum is famous for its extraordinary stelae fields, huge monoliths erected to honour kings. The largest of these, Remhai’s stele, would be over 33m high if it was still erect and weighs over 500 tons. King Ezana’s stele dominates one of the fields and stands 23m high. It has not yet been fully explained how these massive blocks were carved, transported and erected. Remhai’s tomb, 12 underground vaults made from huge granite blocks joined together by metal pins is another extraordinary feat of engineering. Other things to see is Mai Shum, a reservoir near the stelae filed, the Cathedral of Tsion Maryam, built on the site of Ethiopia’s first church, and the city museum.