The city of Penjikent, which means literally ‘five villages’, is located in the Khujand area of Tadjikistan in a picturesque river valley, and is certainly one of the country’s historical highlights. It was a major city established in the 5th century AD by the Sogdians, a prosperous Persian speaking civilization of warriors, noblemen and artists who thrived on Silk Road commerce. It was important strategically as no caravan going into the mountains or returning from Samarkand could avoid passing through. The city was destroyed by the Arabs in the eighth century (the key battle took place on Mount Mug) but the ruins of this ancient city were found only in the last century.

There is plenty to see including the battered walls of clay and brick from which you can make out houses, doorways and ancient avenues. There are also the remains of the ruler’s fortified citadel, the Shakhristan (inner walled city) that contained two Zoroastrian temples, and a necropolis. A small museum shows reproductions of the beautiful frescoes found here, the originals of which are in the Hermitage Museum in St. Petersburg.